Ask most
people what their favorite comfort food is, and chances are they will say
Macaroni and Cheese. Most of the vegan versions I've tried, while good in their
own right, haven’t been able to rival this cherished dish of my childhood. That
doesn’t mean it won’t happen, or I won’t keep trying. So far I’ve resisted using
commercial nondairy cheeses. While I have a feeling they would come very close
to mimicking the original, I don’t feel it would be a step in the right
direction, loaded as they are with oil, saturated fats, and additives. 1000 Vegan Recipes offers up a couple of
vegan renditions of Mac-N-Cheese, and recently I tried the “Baked Mac and
Cheeze”, (page 222).
The basis of
the sauce is soy milk, flour and nutritional yeast, with flavor enhancements
including soy sauce, miso, mustard, cayenne, and paprika, plus a touch of
turmeric to give it a yellow, cheese-like hue. The sauce, which incorporates sautéed
onion, is thickened on the stove top, after which a cup of broth mixed with
cornstarch is added to the pot. (Adding additional liquid/thickener at this
point seemed a little strange to me at first, and I’m still wondering about
this methodology, but it seemed to all work out.) Finally, the sauce is combined
with cooked elbow macaroni, topped with bread crumbs, and baked in the oven. I
opted to top with fresh sliced tomatoes after it was done baking for added
color and flavor.
My husband and
I both enjoyed this latest rendition. The sauce provided a pleasing flavor, and
although not really comparable to cheese, it was cheese-like, primarily due to the large amount of nutritional yeast. It
was still a hot-out-of-the-oven satisfying pasta dish that always pleases at
some level. It made a lot for two people, and the leftovers warmed up in the
microwave nicely.
I made a
slight departure from the recipe directions since I prepared this without the 3
tablespoons of olive oil used to make the roux for the sauce. Normally, when
making a “white sauce”, oil is warmed in a saucepan, to which flour is added
and mixed until you have a soft paste of oil and flour. The oil helps prevent
the flour from lumping when you begin to slowly incorporate the milk with a
whisk. Using this methodology isn’t very conducive to oil free cooking, it
seems you just can’t prevent lumps without coating the flour in oil. To get
around this dilemma, I’ve taken to mixing all the ingredients in a blender and
processing until smooth, then thickening on the stove. Here are my revised instructions
for Step #2, if you opt to make this without the oil:
- Sauté the onion by
itself in a little broth or water; set aside.
- Put the remaining sauce
ingredients (except the cornstarch and broth) into a blender and blend
until smooth. If you want to add a small amount of natural oil and
creaminess to the sauce, you can include 2 tablespoons of tahini to the
sauce ingredients before blending. I did this, and was happy with the
results.
- Transfer blended sauce to
a large sauce pan and thicken over medium heat, whisking almost
constantly.
- Add the sautéed onion to
the thickened sauce.
- Proceed with the remainder
of the recipe (Step #3 in the book).
Keeping it “McDougall
Friendly” checklist:
- Use a small amount of
water or broth to sauté the onion.
- Use wholegrain pasta of
your choice.
- Use wholegrain
breadcrumbs.